9:00am — 9th November 2009 • 

3:00pm — 8th November 2009 • 

12:00pm — 8th November 2009 • 

5:39pm — 7th November 2009 • 

5:37pm — 7th November 2009 • 

“you do know it’s nearly summer in Australia”

— François - International yachting journalist, in the rain, in the winter, in France

5:31pm — 7th November 2009 • 

5:29pm — 7th November 2009 • 

end of autumnal days

Fine autumnal days have finished for certain this time, and winter is ushered in with a dynamic westerly front. Those big grey clouds brought cold now, not just pelting rain. It is the nature of the beast, we suppose whilst trundling down to Royan, gruff winds blow around here this time of the year. The towns get further apart and further closed - usually overcrowded during the hot days - but now it’s all the same with creepy boarded-up homes; red tiles up top that nestle next to barren green pines. The caravan is hoping to catch a ferry across the Gironde rivermouth and make camp around Soulac-sur-Mer. Prevailing winds push Del, Bodean and Hellybutt down into the affluent-seeming Royan - it’s wealth wasn’t so clearly defined, the place was tacky and the brown whipped sea painted a good for nothin’ picture. Bodean seems to like it though, saying stuff like “Jolly good show” and “Milk with two sugars, please” he is part of the English gentry after all, and those respectable people love this goddamn seaside parasol parading shit.

Old scratchers always work the ferries - yellow stained hair and worn hands - and when the big boat berths and they are half-cut on wine, they land the ship just as good with a little more yelling than usual. Swell lashes in and around the docking bay and the iron tub sways happily as the bicycles are lashed to rails and so on. Rolling thunder and the rolling poop-decks! There’s the first asian mail-order bride to be seen in France and Hellybutt wonders what her French is like, as she squeals and clutches to a ponytailed man, who has a stance like he’s knowing these waters.

Over the great open gushing mouth, that spews and sucks at the Atlantic with every turning tide, the forest wants to take the caravan in and shelter any of God’s creatures. Please God. Everything is damp - the air, the mossy ground, the roaring ocean over the dune and those forest beasts - the ragunder, the wild boar and the hooting owls. The slugs are too, but that ain’t nothing new, as they crawl all over the tents and into mugs. Surely, Beatrix Potter is vacationing on the continent, and she must be nearby talking to those wet animals and maybe she could cook us dinner? That is very old fashioned and so it goes - eventually the fuss about the damp is accepted and scattered sleep falls on the tiny forest grotto.

5:28pm — 7th November 2009 • 

5:24pm — 7th November 2009 • 

9:58am — 4th November 2009 • 

“on the road again…just can’t wait to get on the road again…”

— The combined caravan - leaving the home comforts and heading south into the forest

11:34pm — 3rd November 2009 • 

11:32pm — 3rd November 2009 • 

11:31pm — 3rd November 2009 • 

Les Hiddons walks amoung us

Today everyone has dried out, almost to the point of cracking. And then some think what will be the use of drying out when the weather is set to rain in from the Atlantic for a week and evermore, but they don’t pass up a seat around the fire. Silly pessimists.

Jean-Yves is a chilled out bloke, once tied in with the seasons, now set to sit on the island for abit with plans to go rummaging around french roofs to fix wires and dim the lights. Sarah has moved from Old Blighty, for a life style change and looks pretty comfortable, they got a real love story going on too.

Sure is idealic out here. Wake up to go and check the nets, galooping across the mud flats and there is success as John untangles the mullet and tonights main. And then if we didn’t go-a mushroom hunting in the forests then i don’t know what you call it. Ever since La Torche and the sight of a man and a basket and the shouts of “Champignons? Mushrooms?”, all Hellybutt has wanted to do was go fosic for those earthliest of delights. The local man showed us the killers, the not so tastys and the panfried deee-licious butter soaking fellows and into the basket they went. Bodean was picking up every purple time-traveller this side of the Pyrennes and wanting to put it in the basket. “JUST EAT IT!” screeched Hellybutt from beyond the oaks. Sarah saying “absolutly not” and thus saving Bodeans young life. How indebted have we become?

Then on a much discussed surfing expedition we went. Sarah and Jean questioning each other, Jean often sighing and smiling as only men can do. The waves turn out okay on the push of the tide - fun, winding lefts across a flat reef with half the island looking on, then the whole goddamn island jumping in the water with us.

At night it’s nice to drink the wines and the beers and finally sample Kerouac’s one love of cognac, and talk about words lost in translation and exchange annectodes about differences and similarities. But it is dangerous to become accustomed to such a life of warmth and good food, the caravan by nature must toil on, ever south and into the unknown forests. Jean-Yves tells tales of wild boars - tusks and all - which stalk those dappled leafy floors, prompting Del to get up and sharpen his blade. The next day the trailers are packed and the chains greased.

11:21pm — 3rd November 2009 • 

2:02pm — 3rd November 2009 •